Koh Phangan – day 377

The night before I did something incredibly clumsy. Shuffling and bouncing down the bed to turn off the light I managed to run a finger nail across my thigh. I have no idea how I managed such a monumental idiotic thing. But, it left me with a gash like a feral cat had attacked me. And wow did it sting like heck in the shower. Nothing a spot of breakfast and a full pot of fresh lemongrass tea couldn’t cure. Grown in the garden by the owners, three bunches of aromatic stems were uprooted and steeped in hot water. Even Katherine enjoyed some of it. Without being vulgar, I was hydrated enough for the day.

We tried to go for a walk along the beach to Haad Rin, hopefully see the infamous site of the full moon party. We didn’t get at when we found a big dead fish on the shore. Later we found out that it was a baby dolphin. It is very uncommon to have this happen and now in the space of a week there has been two. Our owner reckons that fisherman have caught them in illegal nets and dumped them so not to be prosecuted. Whatever the reason, the rotting carcass of the cetacean hummed above the smell of the seaweed as we crossed over the rocky outcrops to the next stretch of beach. We weren’t able to get very far with the high tide making the route impassable. We doubled back, had a chocolate shake and chilled for the afternoon. There may have been a rather competitive game of monopoly that I shouldn’t have won, but someone was too generous with their trading of properties following my spectacular strop of going to jail for the third time. img_2624img_2625img_2626We got further along the beach in the afternoon. The ebbing tide allowed quicker progress and we got around another few peninsulas. However, there was no visible route to continue or perhaps it was still too high, but we retreated, chilled on a rock watching some kayakers and continued down the beach in the other direction past our place. It made for a quicker way to 7 Eleven where we found coconut jelly drinks and custard bread for an incredibly late lunch. img_2637img_2640img_2646img_2652img_2654img_2656I just made it back to the room in time. Tummy cramps berated the last few kilometres and I was in agony. Not sure what gave me the stomach bug this time – normally I have an idea from my dodgy experimental food stalls – but, it was carnage and draining. A bowl of plain green curry and rice for dinner to settle everything out again, we confined ourselves in the room with tv episodes and the fan to pass away the rest of the evening.

Tuesday 18th October 2016

Koh Phangan – day 375

The mattress is amazing. I know this is a trivial matter – who cares about a mattress. But, weeks and months of soft beds, hard beds, beds that envelope you, single beds, mosquito infested rooms, night buses, etc. only to have a double bed that has a nice soft top layer to it, but support for your back… bliss! A semi decent shower, a scrumptious breakfast of muesli, fruit, yoghurt and honey (pushing the boat out) and we were ready for the day. To do, pause for dramatic effect, diddly squat. Exactly what the doctor ordered. 

Hours of reading books, filling in magazine puzzles, watching tv episodes, interspersed with fried rice, shakes, and the pleasure of an ocean backdrop. It was time to unwind and our bodies didn’t really know if it could handle it. I banged out another job application in vain attempts of being productive and hopeful. Katherine caught up on some WordPress blogs.We went for a stroll out to the sandbar in front of our shore. It was relaxing walking out in the shallows, seeing baby crabs wiggle their calcareous little bottoms into the sand and worms retracting from the shadow we cast over them. The umbrellas on the sandbar were a little out of place. Nobody had used them all day, but perhaps it’s the impending bad weather and not so pristine water conditions that are keeping folks away. I can imagine deck chairs arrayed in the high season and a drinks menu being brought out several times a day. For the present, it was nothing how it could look, but we have good imaginations. The same hotel next door that provides the umbrellas on the sandbar are the same same ones that rake the sand and leave the detritus in front of our hut and plays films on the outdoor screen. Not to worry, we enjoyed the flame poles they stuck in the shallows and the giant, illuminated ‘love’ sign on wooden platforms. It’s a nice feature and probably for the benefit of the honeymoon suite right next to us. So, we’re doing pretty good with cheaper accommodation (presumably), fresher food (we can see it cooked from scratch) and the same views (albeit ours has a bit more rubbish). Not bad work on Katherine’s part to find us this pad. Score!Sunday 16th October 2016