Adelaide – day 323/13

The night bus rumbled on through the wee hours with our skilled bus driver carefully traversing the road and dodging kangaroos, yes that’s right, two of them, finally, on the road, nearly being killed. Not what I was hoping for.

There were a few small stops to drop off and pick up passengers but mostly a quiet journey with little to report…..until Port Augusta.

We got in around 2am for the drivers fatigue management stop that would include fuelling the bus. Now that we were all awake we ventured into the roadhouse for flavoured milks and chocolate. I observed the guy who was working the roadhouse, he was a slow man, perhaps he’d had more than his fair share of the food or was just a lazy lazy man because I’ve never seen anyone work so slow for money in my life. It was painful! I felt like jumping the counter and taking over.

Around 2.45am we all jumped back on the bus and got settled for the next 3.75hrs into Adelaide. We were all trying to get some shut eye when it occurred to me that I was cold, really cold, in fact reezing. To add to this was the unceremonious stench of foul body odour as some of our fellow passengers had clearly forgotten what deodorant was invented for. Add to that the full 45 minute break that some passengers spent chain smoking and it felt like the smell was basically slapping us in the face repeatedly screaming “NO SLEEP FOR YOU” over and over again. It was like some kind of prisoner torture or behind the scenes at Guantanamo Bay.

Bring on 6.30am! I’ve never been so happy to pull into a bus station in my life! The bus driver announced our arrival and apologised about the air conditioning which had been stuck on since we left Port Augusta. Now go back and read the last paragraph. That’s 3.75hrs with the aircon on, whilst on a night bus, that smelt like death when it was only 4 degrees Celsius outside. We were all shattered.

We regrouped to make the hard decisions on what to do until 3.45 pm when we had to be back at the bus station again for our transfer to the Kangaroo Island Ferry. We got our bearings and realised that the Adelaide YHA where we were staying on Saturday was literally around the corner. We decided to throw ourselves on there mercy preying that the 20 something, beany wearing, guitar playing, finding himself young man wouldn’t be a dick and let us use their facilities as we were freezing and desperate. Luckily said young man was clever, gracious and generous and clearly knew by looking at us that if he said no that one of us would jump the counter, the other would clearly injure him whilst the last of us would break his guitar. That’s how cold we were, we were on the edge, it was the perfect storm, all three of us had synced, our moods were black and deadly like a ninja.

After using every drop of hot water we could to recover, we pushed the boundaries more and managed to get our bags stored and a security card that let us use everything until we left that afternoon.

We headed off to Rundle Mall and headed straight to Mc Donald’s. The only place that could get us all back on track. We wandered through the mall where I bought my obligatory “Big Issue” and then proceeded to buy the biggest hard cover book on floristry that I could carry, it was 40% off, what a bargain. Of course it weighed a tonne and I then had to lug it around all day….We managed to find a bus stop for the free solar powered tourist bus that goes around Adelaide, great idea, solar powered, amazing, should be more of them….then the announcement came through, change buses to the one in front, this bus needs to go back and charge up, I guess that’s the equivalent of running out of fuel. Tourist bus fail!So, we were off again on one the high polluting diesel bus and off on a loop of the city and the northern suburbs when I remembered to tell the girls that Adelaide is called the city of churches, hence why there are so many churches.After getting our bearings we headed off to walk along the Adelaide river to the zoo, where we saw a lot of ducks, bird life and a pelican. There were of course the Lycra mafia with there bell ringing and unflattering rear views, just because people in the Tour de France wear Lycra , doesn’t mean everybody should. We decided not to go to the zoo as I think we only wanted to see the pandas and couldn’t really be bothered doing anything to energetic as we were definitely the walking dead.

We strolled through the botanical gardens and generally just enjoyed the sunshine. We saw a sign for a wine appreciation centre in the botanical gardens and thought why not? Well it turned out to be as elusive as the red kangaroos in the outback.We wandered through Adelaides Central Market which is the biggest farmers market in Australia and marvelled at the produce, cakes and meat. We couldn’t really buy much as we only had a few days before heading back to Melbourne. A quick trip to Coles and we walked back to the YHA. A quick late lunch, some productive time for the girls as they booked their Tasmania leg of the tour and it was time to gather our bags and head back to the bus station.Unlike the overnight bus this was a lovely transfer that took us from Adelaide to Jervis Bay 1.5 hrs south to get to the ferry terminal. The countryside was beautiful and I thoroughly fell in love with it. Rolling hills, cows, sheep, vineyards, olive groves and kangaroos, hundreds of them, no not the elusive red kangaroos, the ever reliable, proves our kangaroos are the best, eastern grey kangaroos!! I chatted with some ladies on the bus who worked for Sealink the tourist company that run the ferries and for tours on the island. Lindy and Sarah spent the entire 45 minute ferry ride to Kangaroo island telling us all the good spots to go and marked them on a map. We docked by 7pm and walked the 100 metres to the YHA. Well that was nice and easy! We checked in, made dinner and drank wine and chatted with Cedric who was an older guy who has bought land and is going to build a house himself and Amanda, an over the top Canadian girl who was pretty full on and swore more than me of which I thought not possible! We all chatted a while during which Amanda proceeded to constantly hold my arm which was a little weird as I didn’t know her! I don’t mind a little in appropriate touching but I’d prefer it from Brad Pitt. We hit the sack, excited by the fact that there were thick mattresses on the beds. We hiked up the heater in the room as it was cold and tucked ourselves in for the night after a couple of sleep deprived days. I think the litre of wine and exhaustion worked well together as I don’t think I moved until my alarm went off the next morning.

Thursday 25th August 2016

Uluru & Kata Tjuta – day 318/8

The drop in temperature was quite noticeable during the night. The high teens didn’t feel anything like an Irish/UK summer. We were all pretty cold and sluggish when alarms went off and the floor of the shower blocks felt like ice. We need to remind ourselves of washing our hair in glacier water or when the boiler broke in the flat years ago. It was a unanimous vote that fleeces came out of the duffel bag – something that we thought we had put behind us along the east coast. Aussie sitcoms, documentaries and films owe us an apology for false advertising about glorious hot weather and the outback being a scorched, desolate, barren landscape. But, to turn the other side of the coin, the desert oaks, spinifex and upside down plants brought life and colour, contrasting their shades of green against the rich red of the soil.
We pulled in to the car park sunset viewing area for an early morning shot of Uluru. Katherine completely freaked out a French family when she spoke to them in French to offer us taking a photo of them in front of the iconic rock. I think I took a beautiful photo of them to the side with the landscape framed perfectly. It was not the same when they returned the favour and the dad aligned the three of us up so that the image captured a sliver of sandstone either side of our heads. Completely deflated with our photo we drove down the road to the cultural centre. It wasn’t at all what I was expecting, with the information on the walls being the same as that along the base walk of Uluru, no displays with tools, diet (plants, animals or food), or even items preserved over the generations. There was a video playing that was made by the traditional owners and a few old photos near the cash register in the gift shop. I absolutely love the paint work, the first time I saw the Aboriginal style was on a t-shirt a friend of the family brought back from Oz years ago. But, at extortionate prices for small pieces and Katherine having a thing about dots and circles, there was no real point looking around the three separate art shops. 

The equally impressive Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) were about 50km away from the cultural centre towards the Western Australia border. There was talk of us doing a road trip just to say we had visited all the states. But, we discounted it even before we saw the road which was a 4WD trip into the wilderness. The Olgas are a striking group of domed rocks huddled together in a small area. Kata Tjuta, means ‘many heads’ and the 36 boulders shoulder to shoulder form deep valleys and steep-sided gorges. They are of great importance to the Aboriginal men of the area, not sure if it was Pitjantatjara or Yankuntjatjara or for both tribes (who refer to themselves as Anangu), but one is asked to stick to the tracks. So, off we went on the 7.4km Valley of the Winds loop tracks.Supposedly one of the most challenging and rewarding bushwalks in the park, it winds through the gorges, giving excellent views of the surreal domes and traversing varied terrain. It wasn’t particularly arduous, but the loose rubble and occasional steep sections made it a slow walk more than a hard one. We were spoilt… the sun trap in the valley meant we could take off the fleeces and the sights were spectacular. One spent as much time looking backwards as forward, for the different angles on the rock face revealed new features and each one just as breathtaking. I think the best section would have to been the long section on the plains under the domes, with views to the horizon, lizards basking on the rocks and not a single soul around except for the three of us. With some grumpy people complaining that ‘Oh Mon Dieu, these are not steps’, on the last section getting close to the car park, and Katherine deciding to try and swallow a fly it, the walk was over before we knew it. Lunch was a quick affair, with the flies being a real nuisance and swarming around face and food constantly. So, we had a predicament about what to do: return to the sunset car park for a good spot, or do a bit of another walk at the Olgas. With Katherine being a little worse for wear from her flu-like symptoms, we opted for the car park. Setting up the new camera took a bit of time and getting it to sync with the wifi on the phone was a stressful few minutes. But, we had a hilarious time taking photos in front of Ayers Rock with us able to press the button on the phone to take several shots without running back and forth to the camera. Without a usual sunset due to cloud cover, we went to the shop, had an early dinner and drank wine while the Ninjas wrote blogs (nice change) and I sorted out camera batteries and SD cards before bed.

Saturday 20th August 2016

Katherine – day 314/4

Tracey took the extra pillow to relieve some of her back pain, I took the mattress to stop the bed frame from digging in to my hips and Katherine took the fitted bed sheet and made a cocoon like a caterpillar. But do you think any of us slept well??? Ha! It was a cold, painful night and breakfast was a subdued affair. It warranted a proper coffee for the driver in the shop as we checked out and off we went to Leliyn (Edith Falls). The Leliyn Trail is a bit of a loop and we took the longer section to begin, bringing us past some stunning views of the plateau and through beautiful grevillea and spinifex bush land. The Upper Pool is supposedly quieter than the pool next to the campground/car park, but it seemed far from that as we scrambled over some rocks to find a shady spot to change and leave our bags as we slunked in to the cool, fresh water. Smelling slightly of the algae growing on the rocks and giving the shallows a slightly slippy surface we lapped up the sun, chatted by the cascade and people watched. We did some proper sun-bathing on the sandstone slopes, munched on a packet of burger rings and dried off before changing. It was unusual for us that we weren’t leaving due to the heat or our skin burning. It was watching the idiots climb higher and higher up the rocks, diving in to the very shallow pool, with rocks that are hard to see with the layer of algae coating them in a dark colour in an already shaded area. We just didn’t want to be around to witness anything happen. Plus, watching the pasty white ginger kid turn a shade of beetroot was painful to watch. Walking back to the car park via the other shorter route, we had different views and got to see the pools above where we were. Those ones are inaccessible but a trail for another few kilometres brings you to the Sweetheart Pool. We didn’t feel like we missed out in the slightest. Using the facilities and Tracey grabbing an iced coffee we headed back to the car. There was a scene very similar to Violet in Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory, with a previously mentioned individual being escorted back to their camper van. Maybe he was off to be squeezed?!

You can imagine that our next destination was full of photo opportunities. Or rather, they were obligatory and we were stopping every few metres down the road to let Katherine take photos next to signs of… ‘Katherine’. The area was named by explorer John McDouall Stuart (we are travelling mostly on the Stuart Highway) after the second daughter of one of his expedition sponsors. The area was renamed ‘Nitmiluk’ – meaning ‘cicada place’ (‘nitmi’ is the sound a cicada makes, ‘luk’ means land/place/country) – in 1989 when traditional owners, the Jawoyn Aboriginal people, gained title to the land after years of arguing with the government to prove they owned the land. Our Katherine has been beside herself that the Aussies typically spell her name correctly unlike back in the UK and takes it as another sign that we should move to Oz… mainly for the koalas. 

With a few lunch supplies from Woolies we sat under a tree outside the Nitmiluk Visitor Centre and passed the time before heading down to the cruise jetty. A series of 13 deep sandstone gorges have been carved out by the Katherine River on its journey from Arnhem Land to the Timor Sea. Only 3 gorges are accessible by boat and even then, they might need another boat for the 2nd gorge if the dry season is longer than usual and makes one section too shallow. The other gorges are viewed by helicopter and had we more time we might have enjoyed canoeing the waterways. 

The spectacular Katherine Gorge forms the backbone of the 2,920 sq km Nitmiluk National Park and is the most photographed section of the area. The guide books accurately describe it as a hauntingly beautiful place, with the rippling orange and red hues of the rocks towering above us on either side. The tour guide / boat driver was giving a very informative and interesting dialogue along the cruise and broke up the commentary with photo opportunities and manoeuvring the boat so that both sides could get unobstructed photo opportunities.The little cuts at the edges and corners of the gorges, until mentioned by the guide, were irrelevant, but when told that they are part of lateral faults from a prehistoric earthquake then we were able to line up the opposite fault in perfect 90* angles to each other. The crocodile nesting beaches were a shiny white and a few crocs even posed for some nice photos. The best photo of the day though has to have been the ones of Katherine, driving the boat down Katherine Gorge.Checked in at Knotts Crossing Resort, I was left behind with signs of heat exhaustion. I don’t know how I managed to get it while the others didn’t, but my head was splitting and I just wanted to sleep. Old Ninja and Fat Ninja went back in to town to get dinner and I had some Olympics on in the background. They returned with random stories: there are very few places that you can buy goon in the Northern Territory due to the alcohol problems with the indigenous and if you do find somewhere to purchase the silver pillow of goodness, then it is at certain times, once a day, with photographic id; police officers everywhere checking id’s; the petrol is a low aromatic type to reduce another problem recurring in the Top End and Outback. 

While Tracey took her sweet ass time cooking dinner (she could have just turned the hob up to full power), she also decided it’d be fun to break the tap. So, while we sat down to eat chicken wraps, the campsite handyman fixed the tap with ‘We Are The Millers’ on tv spouting some erotic profanities and mentioning ‘cock’ quite a lot as he was screwing the fosette. It made for a funny evening before bed. 

Tuesday 16th August 2016

Kakadu – day 312/2

I should have stayed up and watched the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. We love that film and it was on next when I clicked off the tv. The ninjas slept well and I didn’t, I at least should have had a good excuse. So, after packing up the car we headed back towards Darwin but turned off at Humpty Doo. Topped up with petrol from having chewed up a far ole’ distance on the highway already, and a quick pic with the boxing croc before we drove towards the Kakadu National Park. While en route we managed to purchase our park permits online. The 3G kept cutting out on Tracey’s phone but we got there in the end… only a few kilometres from where we could have bought ’em over the counter!

Continuing the adventure we missed the turn off for the croc tour. Oops, quick U-turn. Recommended by Ben yesterday to go with this company we drove a long way down a dirt track with the dust from vehicles in front being a small comfort that we were at least getting lost in convoy. 
We managed to get a slot on the 11am boat. But, with so many people turning up they stuck all the elderly and children on this boat and sent out the ‘cool’ boat for another group at 11:15 (much to the satisfaction of everyone on board). The guide had forgotten his bait stick so asked us to hold the steering wheel in position while he went ashore to find one. I have to say, personally, that I think that pushing the throttle forward a nudge was prudent in the situation as the boat was pulling off the jetty and surely he’d like both us and vessel still there when he returned. However, he didn’t find it acceptable and asked someone else up JUST to hold the wheel. Whatever! We only went a small distance across the Adelaide river to our first croc. Domino, a 5m male, had set up territory across from the jetties and was waiting patiently at the side of the other boat for the food to appear. We thus got our first glimpse of this prehistoric reptile with its head lurking out of the water next to a tin can with perhaps 20 people. Oh, and he was longer than the boat. And our boat was a smaller boat than their’s. Yikes! So, when he jumped from the water, a terrifying realisation that the side bars are nowhere near high enough and this is indeed an apex predator. We loved every second. Braving the edge and railings a bit more as the cruise went on, we got photos of a half blind female, other quicker, more nimble, higher jumping females, a scrawny little male and a couple of juveniles. Katherine and Tracey plied the skipper with questions to which everyone listened to the answers and we traversed up and down the river, zigzagging across the choppy waves to different territories. The adrenaline was magnificent and the new camera managed to capture some continuous shots of the morning. It was pretty epic and something we’ll never forget. 

Stopping at the weirdly beautiful transmission station down the road we were on the highway heading towards our UNESCO World Heritage Site #52. Katherine is delighted that we managed to achieve 1 WHS per week before we had been travelling for a year. What started as a route to decide our travel destinations is now something worthy of a Dave Gorman show and I think we need to sit down and work on the idea. The now obligatory photo of the UNESCO symbol at the site was provided by the lovely Tracey when she did another U-turn. Kakadu is a whole lot more than a national park. It’s also a vibrant, living acknowledgment of the elemental link between the Aboriginal custodians and the country they have nurtured, endured and respected for thousands of generations. Encompassing almost 20,000 sq km it holds a spectacular ecosystem and a mind-blowing concentration of ancient rock art. The landscape is an ever changing tapestry periodically scorched and flooded, apparently desolate or obviously abundant depending on the season. 

The charming navigator in the back seat planned our lunch break at Mamukala wetlands. A beautiful observation platform granted uninterrupted views of wading birds, ducks and the occasional passing raptor. It was serenely peaceful except for the birds and that’s totally acceptable and refreshing. We let grub settle down before hitting the road to Ubirr. Kakadu’s rock art has many fine examples at this site as well as stunning views over the landscape. Including depictions of traditional Aboriginal law and learning, and the abundant foods to be found in the area, the bus loads of visitors don’t disturb the inherent majesty and grace of the place. Layers of rock-art paintings, in various styles and from various centuries, command a mesmerising stillness. Part of the main gallery reads like a menu, with images of kangaroos, tortoises and fish painted in x-ray, which became the dominant style about 8,000 years ago. Predating these are the paintings of Miami spirits: cheeky, dynamic figures who, it’s believed, were the first of the Creation Ancestors to paint on rock (given the lack of cherry pickers in 6,000 BC, you have to wonder who else but a spirit could have painted at that height and angle). 

The magnificent Nardab Lookout is a 250m scramble from the main gallery. Surveying the billiard-table-green floodplain, the landscape changes dramatically from the soaring sandstone escarpments of Arnhem Land to monsoon forests and savanna woodlands and tidal flats in the distance. 

The beauty of the area is lost on the youth: the children are impatient and running amock and adolescents are more concerned about a unique selfie or dangerous pose over the cliff ledge. But, we enjoyed it and headed down with enough time to explore more paintings and head back towards Jabiru before sunset and darkness. I had saved on to the MapsMe app where our accommodation was for the the night. So, it was annoying that we drove in to this caravan park without any signs and not a reception or office in sight. I looked up the address of the place on the tourist map and directed Tracey to the other side of town to where the address said it would be – nothing. So, we drove around the town looking for somewhere that we could then ask for directions. Eventually finding the campsite, I was quite upset that we drove in to the same place as earlier. We had come in the back entrance of the complex (the only road marked on my map) and thus the little jog around town was a big waste of time. Tracey and I went down to the garage to get stuff for dinner and Katherine sorted out full SD cards for a change. It was pretty awesome cooking burgers on the barbecue and a late night dinner was had with a nice cool breeze blowing through the complex. Our ‘bush cabin’ was raised very high on stilts and the glamping vibe was quite nice to wind down after another action packed day. 

Sunday 14th August 2016

Magnetic Island – Day 306

I slept soundly except for needing to use the toilet at 3.30am however Jayne said it was a particularly noisy night with the previously mentioned larger gentleman snoring all night and coughing so profusely at one point that the Italian girl in the bed opposite shouted at him to ‘shut the fuck up’… Of the joys of sharing a dorm with 7 strangers!!

We both woke up as the light poured through the open vents masquerading as windows but, with a long wait to use the shower, we both stayed in bed – Jayne continued watching her film and I read some more of my book. Having both managed to finally get a shower and steal the bottom bed in my bunk as the girl checked out, we headed over to the campers kitchen for breakfast of fruit toast and cashew nut spread – it is, hands down, my new favourite breakfast spread! It may even be better than Nutella…
We missed the hourly bus by 10 minutes, so we decided to walk into Horseshoe Bay. Having been reassured that there are no box jellyfish in the water (or any other marine stingers) at this time of year, we decided to pick up the snorkel trail cards for the two routes on the island. Unfortunately, the shop didn’t have any left so we just bought some carrots to feed the rock wallabies and caught the bus to Acardia. Fortunately, the newsagents there had the snorkel trail cards so we walked down the road at Bremnar Point (between Geoffrey Bay and Alma Bay) and got ready for our first ever underwater nature trail. Australia’s first (legal) snorkel trail was developed on Magnetic Island. There are two trails – Nelly Bay and Geoffrey Bay. We decided to go for the latter one as it, supposedly, offers a good selection of fish to see around the Moltke wreck and we would be able to swim out further to the WWII aeropane propeller and engine block (from a CW-22B Curtiss Falcon). 

Having brought all our stuff with us ready for a days exploring on the island, we didn’t really want to leave it by the side of the road so we packed up Jayne’s SLR camera and our iPhones into two dry bags and brought it along with us. Getting into the water off the old pier was easier than we had both anticipated and the water was certainly warmer too. We made our way over 100 metres to the first buoy, consulted our card so we knew we were supposed to be looking for algae and coral and stuck our heads under the water…. Nothing! The water was so silty that we could barely see a thing so we began snorkelling over to the second buoy, catching glimpses of coral which Jayne ducked down to get a closer look as I watched from the surface. Again, there was nothing much to see through the silt so we continued to the third buoy which had a bat fish hanging around on the buoy rope. Having not seen very much at any of these surface markers, we decided to call it a day and head back into shore.Again, getting out at the pier with waves crashing against the concrete was surprisingly easy and neither of us ended up blooded and bruised like we had anticipated. Despite the poor water visibility, we both thought it was a fabulous idea and we’d both had a great time until we discovered that one of our dry bags had leaked and ruined Jayne’s camera… I felt incredibly guilty since it was my idea to take them with us. Not sure whether it will work again with a bit of TLC and a visit to the camera doctors but the prognosis doesn’t look great… Having run out of battery on my underwater camera we were left with our iPhones to capture photos for the rest of the day. 

We got dressed by the side of the road, Jayne unusually quiet and me apologising profusely before we headed over to feed the ‘wild’ rock wallabies. Having been accustomed to being fed, they literally eat out of your hand and the cuteness of it certainly raised both our spirits, especially the wallaby with the little joey sticking his head out of the pouch. Jumped back on the bus we headed to the other side of the island, Picnic Bay, which was once the home of the ferry terminal. Nowadays, it is a low key spot with nothing really there apart from a handful of shops and cafes. We found a shady spot to have some lunch before walking along the pier to watch the local fisherman try to catch something whilst a tourist did a couple of jetty jumps nearby. We decided to follow the rocky coastal walking trail back to Nelly Bay and enjoyed walking through the granite boulders, hoop pines and eucalyptus trees. We came across several gorgeous look outs to deserted bays along the route which we would have certainly never knew existed had we caught the bus. Treating ourselves to an ice cream when we reached Nelly Bay we jumped on a bus and headed to the area known as ‘The Forts’. Townsville was a supply base for the Pacific during WWII, and the forts were designed to protect the town from naval attack. The 4km round trip walk passes lots of ex-military sites, gun emplacements and false ‘rocks’. At the top of the walk is the observation tower and command post which both have spectacular coastal views. The path is also well known for being able to spot koalas lazing about in the treetops… We saw four! They were so beautiful with much shorter hair than the ones we had seen further south in Australia. One had moved by the time we came back down from the 800m loop at the end of the walk and we couldn’t find him anywhere – just goes to show how fast they can move when they want to!– …. . …- .. . .– ..-. .-. — — -.-. — — — .- -. -.. .–. — … – .– .- … .- — .- –.. !

.- .-.. .-.. – …. .- – .– .- … — .. … … .. -. –. .– .- … .- ..-. . .– …. ..- — .–. -… .- -.-. -.- .– …. .- .-.. . … -… .-. . .- -.-. …. .. -. –. .. -. – …. . … . .- -… . .-.. — .– – — — .- -.- . .. .–. . .-. ..-. -.-. – ! Having just missed the bus (again for the second time today!), we decided to wait at the bus stop rather than navigate the roads that go through the national park in the dark. As we watched the night close in, even with the light from the solitary street lamp, we were glad with our decision knowing that neither of us wanted to stumble around in the dark – me ’cause I’m scared of the dark and Jayne ’cause of what could be lurking in the dark (deadly snakes and spiders etc. – it is Australia!!). The bus took us to the end of the line where we treated ourselves to a fish and chip dinner. Jayne got hers battered and I got mine crumbed (not sure what that really means) but they were both delicious and the fish was incredibly fresh – it almost tasted like meat! Back at the room to shower off the salt water from our snorkel and the dirt from my feet since I did ‘The Forts’ walk in flip flops, we then climbed into my bottom bunk and watched a film whilst munching on some Oreo Mint Dairy Milk Chocolate. 

Monday 8th August 2016